Red Pillar of Brouillard – Bonatti-Oggioni route – Mont Blanc
Together with Fabien, a friend and also aspirant mountain guide, we climbed the amazing Red Pillar of Brouillard on the South face of Mont Blanc.
This route was first climbed by a legendary Italian alpinist , Walter Bonatti (1930-2011), together with Andrea Oggioni (1930-1961), on July 5/6 of 1959.
The South face of Mont Blanc viewed from the Monzino Hut:
The Noire of Peuterey:
Fabien at the base of the red pillar:
The first F.6a pitch wakes you up!
Amazing red granite!
We then climb up some very loose mixed terrain above the pillar, to reach the Louis Amédée peak on the Brouillard ridge:
No more solid granite…
Finally on the Brouillard ridge, but Mont Blanc is still far away:
18 hours after leaving the Monzino hut, we finally reach the top of Mont Blanc!
We then head down the Bosses ridge alone in the sunset. A great moment of peace and completeness after so many hours of efforts and concentration…
The line of the Red Pillar of Brouillard:
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